Matthew McClure has been building Arkansas into a cuisine plate by plate at The Hive since 2013, and the sourcing is the argument: Berkshire hog from Bansley's Ridge, cornmeal and grits from War Eagle Mill, beer from Ozark. He calls it High South refined country cooking. The James Beard people have named him a Best Chef: South semifinalist seven times over, so the craft is not in question. The room sits inside the 21c Museum Hotel, which means the contemporary art wanders off the gallery walls into the dining room, green penguins included. Come for Arkansas treated as a cuisine, not a theme.