Chef Neal Gray builds the plate around its ingredients inside a restored 1898 sanctuary off the Square, where soaring ceilings carry George Dombek stained glass and 288 gold bells hung overhead. The Infatuation calls it the most distinctive fine dining in NWA, and Gray brings a French Laundry and Blue Hill kitchen to the pit. It is one destination on three floors, the Undercroft speakeasy below and the Celeste rooftop above; go for a special occasion, not a weeknight drop-in.