TOCA makes you work one flight for it: the door is inside 202 Railside Apartments on East Emma, stairs or elevator up to a second-floor room above the railroad tracks of downtown Springdale. Its owners put the point in six words — "Built by Latinos, led by Latinos" — and the menu carries it out, setting home-register plates like chilaquiles verdes and elote en vaso beside a bar that works agave as a craft category: a spicy guava mezcalita, an Oaxacan old-fashioned. This is no standard taqueria; it is a tribute to la cultura at a downtown address chosen on purpose. Know the shape of the thing before you climb: the room is small, walk-ins only, no reservations taken. The standing ritual is happy hour, Monday through Thursday from 4 to 6; the patio DJ nights are real but unscheduled, announced one at a time, so don't build an evening around one.